Put bike up on motorcycle jack (or use $20 stand) You don't have to get the wheels off the ground, but you will be removing the Kickstand, so the bike needs to be supported. Remove Seat and tank.  (I don't have pics for this.  If someone wants to write up the steps, I'll link to their writeup) Remove middle gear cover (crescent shaped cover) Note: the Middle Gear is under the round cover (right center in this picture). It's held on by the same bolts that hold on the chrome cover. Be careful that you don't dislodge it, or you might have to replace it's O-Ring   Disconnect Clutch cable where it enters engine  Loosen front Kickstand bolt and remove rear one. Swing the kickstand bracket down out of the way.   Note the orientation of the shift linkage to the alignment mark. When you reassemble everything, you'll want to put it back the way it came off. Remove the bolt holding linkage on. Remove linkage from shaft. Drain the oil. (I don't have pics for this.  If someone wants to write up the steps, I'll link to their writeup)  Here's a picture of the case gasket. I took a piece of cardboard and poked holes in it where the bolts go. As I removed them from the case cover, I put the bolts in the match holes on the cardboard. They are not all the same length, so doing this, helped me put back in where they came from. Remove bolts from Stator cover and pull cover off. Note: the gasket may have 'baked on', so the cover could be hard to remove. Do not pry on it, or you may score the gasket surface, causing an oil leak. Gently tap on the cover with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Also, there are two locator dowels to help align the cover, one at the top center and one at the bottom center. They can come out, so don't lose them. Clean the old gasket off the cover and the case. I found using the gasket remover helped quite a bit. There are three JIS screws holding the stator on the case, and two more holding the Pick-up Coil on.  They are a bear to get out.  There have been various posts on the 650CCND forum on how to get them out. I used a JIS screwdriver.  For the ones that wouldn't budge, I used a Bolt Out from Sears. Others have heated up the case, and used an inverted can of air to cool the screws. Be sure to remove old gasket completely, or you will have oil leaks.  I used gasket remover to dissolve the old gasket.   Follow wires up to connector under tank. (need pic). Swap out defective unit and reverse the steps put everything back together. I used RTV around where the wires come through the case.  PUT NEW OIL IN! (Note on replacement parts) Note: Depending on your model year, the Stator and Pick-up coil may have separate grommets, or on later models, they share a common grommet. The older style looks like this and the newer one like this. Functionally the two styles are the same except for the grommet. If yours is the newer style, Yamaha sells both parts as one unit. You can replace the stator or PU Coil with the older style. It will requite you to either splice the wires inside the engine case, or cut the grommet where the wires run thru it. Part numbers (and approximate list price as of Jan. 2009): The older style combined unit 5SC-81410-00-00 ($205) The separate Stator is 4VR-81410-00-00 ($210) Pick-up coil is 4TR-81670-00-00 ($88)